From Cotton Yarns to Fabrics: Everything You Need To Know

We rarely consider how many intricate processes are needed to manufacture a single t-shirt. From cotton cultivation to yarn production and fabric creation, making a piece of clothing often requires plenty of time and resources. Today, we will discuss one of the main steps of this long chain of processes: how factories turn cotton yarns into fabrics, such as sateen, muslin, and flannel.

But before we analyse this process, let’s first look at the importance of this sector in the world’s economy. Cotton is by far the most used raw material for clothes production. Not many people know that most fabrics, such as flannel, denim, and corduroy, are all made from this raw material. Almost all countries in the world export or import clothes, with China being the leading exporter and the EU the largest importer (Fashion United, 2023). According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry is a $1.3 trillion sector employing over 300 million people worldwide who are now producing from 100 to 150 billion items annually (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2019). 

Some of these people are responsible for turning cotton yarn into fabrics, which are then used to create our clothes. But how does this all work? 

From Cotton Yarns to Fabrics Step by Step

Fabric production can occur in two main ways: weaving or knitting. Let’s start by analysing the former. 

Weaving

Weaving consists of interlacing two sets of cotton yarns so they cross each other. This can be either done by hand or with a power-operated loom. The three primary waves most commonly used in the fashion industry are twill, satin, and plain. Other popular ones include pile, Jacquard, leno, and dobby, even though these require more complicated manufacturing processes, such as special attachments that need to be added to the loom (Britannica, 2024). Unlike knitted fabrics, woven textiles can be easily cut, making them ideal for clothes manufacturing. 

Knitting

The other main technique used in fabric manufacturing is knitting. This consists of using a set of yarns to form a series of interlocked loops. Similar to waving, this process can be done by hand or using machines; however, the latter method is now widely used by industries all over the world. Compared to weaved fabrics, knitted ones tend to stretch more (Britannica, 2024). 

Dyeing 

After being woven or knitted, fabrics are then dyed. While in the past, this step was done using natural colourants, today, most factories use chemical ones. This process is known as piece dyeing, in contrast with yarn dyeing, which is the process of dyeing individual yarns that are then used for knitting or weaving fabrics. Piece-dyed fabrics tend to be more affordable than yarn-dyed ones, but similar to these, their production requires chemicals that can harm our environment if not disposed of properly.  

Printing 

Alternatively, companies can opt for printing. For instance, this method should be used when creating a graphic t-shirt. Factories use various printing methods, such as heat transfer printing, in which a graphic is printed on paper and then transferred into the fabric using a press. Cool printing follows a similar process but can be done at room temperature and is, therefore, one of the most eco-friendly methods. Other standard techniques include digital printing, rotary screen printing, and flatbed screen printing. 

Different cotton fabrics 

Here are some of the main cotton fabrics used for clothes production today.

Muslin

Muslin is a loosely woven cotton fabric often used for fashion prototypes to test patterns before creating the final garment. This textile originated in Dhaka, Bangladesh, and dates back to prehistoric times. Muslin can come in four different thickness levels, with gauze being the thinnest, followed by mull, Swiss muslin, and sheeting, the thickest often used for clothing and homewares (Masterclass, 2024).

Sateen

Sateen is one of the leading cotton fabrics now vastly used by the fashion industry. This material is renowned for its softness, breathability, and durability. However, it also has some cons as, compared to other fabrics, it is more prone to wrinkling and piling. 

Flannel

While flannel is often made from cotton fibres, this textile can sometimes be composed of wool or synthetic fibres like polyester. This material is renowned for its softness and was first documented in Wales in the 16th century. 

Denim

One of the most famous textiles in the world, denim is the material used to produce jeans. It is often dyed with indigo colours and it is manufactured using a twill weave. Good-quality denim can last for decades and tends to be pretty low-maintenance.

Sustainability practices in the textile manufacturing industry

Energy and water consumption

To give a practical example, a study revealed that 1,500 gallons of water are required to grow the cotton needed for the fabric used for a single pair of jeans (Science Direct, 2017). This does not count all the extra water required to clean cotton from impurities before manufacturing yarns. On top of this, most factories still use energy from fossil fuels to operate the machines needed to turn raw cotton into the fabrics required to produce our clothes. 

Chemical dyes

Chemical dyes are another massive problem for our environment. Unfortunately, several factories in developing countries do not have the necessary equipment to dispose of the wastewater used to dye their clothes correctly. This means that water containing harmful chemicals is often discharged into the nearest body of water, causing irreparable damage to the local ecosystems. 

A more sustainable future

Despite everything, a greener future is possible. For instance, low-carbon textile colouration technologies can now drastically limit our CO2 emissions. Opting for more eco-friendly materials like organic cotton can also help us drastically reduce our water consumption. Lastly, governments should implement laws pushing businesses to adopt greener policies. An excellent example is the European Green Deal, aiming to reach climate neutrality by 2025.