How Raw Cotton Is Made Into Yarns: Everything You Need To Know

Producing clothes requires several steps, from the cultivation of cotton to the weaving of yarns. Today, we will discuss the second phase of this long chain of processes, namely how industries turn raw cotton into yarns. Before we jump into this topic, however, it’s important to understand the importance that this raw material plays in the fashion industry. 

To this day, cotton remains the most popular fibre when it comes to clothes production, with 50% of our clothes made from this material. This crop provides work for 7% of all labour in developing countries, with over 250 million people employed in its cultivation (WWF, 2024). The main exporters of raw cotton are China, India, and the USA (USDA, 2022), with the total global production now amounting to 27 million tons of raw cotton per year (The World Counts, 2024). 

But how do factories turn raw cotton into garments? The first step is yarn creation.

From raw cotton to yarns step by step 

Transforming raw cotton into yarns requires several passages. Here are the most important ones.

Ginning 

After being harvested, cotton is collected in ‘modules’, which allow the material to be stored safely before ginning. This first step consists of dividing cotton fibres from cotton seeds and other impurities. Cotton is first dried to reduce moisture and then separated from impurities. This process is now carried out by specialised machines all over the world, with a typical gin able to process about 12 bales of cotton per hour (National Cotton Council of America, 2024; National Cotton Council of America, 2024).

Carding

This consists of separating individual fibres and removing other minor impurities, such as dust and dirt, stuck in the cotton. Carding can be done by hand using the so-called hand carders or with the help of machines. (Britannica, 2024). 

Combing 

Carding is followed by combing. This process removes short fibres from cotton to create a sliver composed of long fibres, all laid parallel. This passage is particularly important when manufacturing yarns for high-quality garments as it’s fundamental for creating smoother, more lustrous slivers. 

Drawing

Drawing refers to the process of attenuating the sliver. This can be done by passing the cotton sliver through rollers that strengthen each fibre (Britannica, 2024).

Roving

Since drawn slivers are too thick to produce yarns, they must be further elongated using a roving machine. 

Spinning

It’s now time for spinning, a process that creates a continuous cotton thread. Thanks to modern technology, we can now make yarns directly from the slivers, with machines making up to 2,500 revolutions per second (Britannica, 2024). 

Winding 

Once the yarn is ready, a few final passages are needed. One of these is winding. This step removes all sorts of faults present in the yarn, such as slubs and neps, a word used to refer to entangled fibres.

Dyeing  

Yarns are then dyed to produce all sorts of effects on fabrics, from plaids to woven stripes and gingham checks. Several dyeing methods are currently being used worldwide, but one of the most common is package dyeing. When factories use this process, the yarn is placed on vertical spindles and sent into dyeing machines (National Cotton Council of America, 2024). 

Everything you need to know about yarns 

But what do business owners need to know when purchasing yarns? 

Finer & coarser yarns

First of all, it's important to know the so-called yarn count, which determines the thickness of a yarn. The higher the count, the finer the yarn. But what's the difference? When the yarn is bulkier, fewer stitches are needed per inch of knitting and vice versa. Thin yarns are great for creating small details and intricate stitch patterns. They are also the perfect choice for light wear and are associated with smoother surfaces. Thick yarns, on the other hand, are ideal for warm clothes and tend to have a rustic look. 

100% cotton yarn, blended yarn

Another important distinction must be made between 100% cotton and blended yarn. As the name suggests, the former is entirely composed of cotton fibres, while the latter is a blend of cotton and other fibres such as viscose and polyester. While 100% cotton yarns are known for being breathable, soft, and absorbent, blended yarns are renowned for their durability and affordability.

Cotton yarns and sustainability

But how sustainable is yarn production?

Water and energy consumption

Turning raw cotton into yarn requires plenty of energy and water. The former is used in all processes to activate the machines needed to produce yarn, and, according to a study, ginning a bale of cotton is associated with 60.38 kg CO2 emissions (Pishgar-Komleh, 2012). This process also requires plenty of water to wash the cotton and ensure it's clean before proceeding with the following steps. 

Chemical dyes

Chemical dyes constitute another significant concern. Dyeing processes are associated with high amounts of water waste, but this is not all. This phase is also linked to high pollution levels, as dumping dirty liquids in nearby rivers and oceans is the easiest way to dispose of the wastewater derived from these processes. Unfortunately, several factories in developing countries still don't have a proper wastewater system and have no alternative but to dispose of their wastewater in such a way. This is highly damaging to our environment as the water used for dyeing contains highly toxic chemicals harmful to our ecosystems. 

A more sustainable future

Despite the current challenges, a greener future is possible. Companies can start using natural dyes to change the colour of their yarns, and governments worldwide can increase their controls to ensure all factories producing yarn have an effective wastewater system to avoid polluting oceans and other bodies of water.