Madagascar’s Textile Industry: Key Statistics, History, and Sustainability

When we think of Madagascar, we often imagine crystal blue beaches, friendly-looking lemurs, and majestic baobabs. However, not many people know that this country is one of the most successful in the African apparel industry. 

According to data published by the US International Trade Administration, Madagascar is the leading country in the Sub-Saharan region in terms of textile exports to the EU and third for exports to the USA. Despite suffering during the COVID-19 pandemic, the sector had almost recovered to pre-pandemic levels by the end of 2020. 

But let's talk numbers! In 2023, this country made $2,750 thousand in the export of textiles and $220 thousand in yarn exports. This sector accounted for 19.34% of the national GDP and 7% of all foreign direct investments (International Labour Organisation, 2023). The textile industry in this country comprises six main stages: cotton seed cultivation, ginning to produce cotton fibres, spinning, fabric-making, manufacturing, and local and international marketing. 

As of 2020, the textile sector was Madagascar's largest former employer, providing work to almost 180,000 people, a massive percentage considering the country has fewer than 30 million inhabitants. Roughly 120,000 of these work in garment factories, while approximately 50,000 are employed in cotton plantations. 

Madagascar's Main Textile Hub

Most people working in Madagascar's apparel industry live in the so-called 'Export Processing Zones (EPZ), the area surrounding Antananarivo and Antsirabe (US International Trade Administration, 2020). This area is renowned for the productivity and skill of its employees. Not by chance, the labour force here has productivity levels ranging from 60% to 80% due to its experienced workforce and high retention rates. 

Sustainability

Several initiatives have recently been put in place to speed up the green revolution in the textile industry in Madagascar. For instance, in 2020, the United Kingdom Trade Partnerships Programme (UKTP) launched a program giving targeted support to fourteen companies in the country to become more competitive, connect to buyers, and improve their social and environmental sustainability (International Trade Centre, 2020). Regarding this project, Dorothy Tembo, International Trade Centre's acting Executive Director, declared: 'I am confident that the project will strengthen the export competitiveness of Madagascar's textile and clothing sector, create additional exports and boost job creation.'

Several brands are also now investing in sustainable practices. For example, Akanjo Madagascar has collaborated with Gabriela Hearst to create a new spring 2022 collection using eco-friendly materials, including recycled cashmere, organic silk, and leftovers fabrics in 55% of the ready-to-wear.

It's also important to mention that Madagascar is the leading producer of raffia, accounting for 80% of the world's supply. This unique material comes from the segment of the leaves of a specific palm and it is used to make shoes, handbags, and baskets. Several innovative companies in the country, such as Made For A Woman by Eileen Akbaraly and Pok Pok, are now using this material in their designs to help the spread of this eco-friendly material across the world (Economic Development Board Madagascar, 2021). Talking about her brand, Fitia Randriamifidimanana Rasolofoniaina, co-founder of Pok Pok, said: “We are aware that a fundamental and deep change is necessary to preserve our incredible ecosystem.” She later added: “We are committed to being actors of this change through our daily commitments.”

Workers' conditions

Unfortunately, informal employment is still common in Madagascar, representing roughly 42.8% of the workforce. These people often work with their family or are self-employed, with temporary contracts and no paid holiday or sick leave.

Unfortunately, working hours are rarely respected. ​For instance, in 28% of cases, employees are asked to work for over eight hours per day, and in 71% of cases, they are asked to work over five days per week despite the length of the legal working week in the country being only 40 hours. Some employees even declare that they are working 65 overtime hours a week. On the positive side, 89% of employees said they were remunerated for their extra work.

Unfortunately, also in terms of wages, the country scores poorly, with 43% of workers under the poverty levels defined by the World Bank ($1.78 per day). Despite this, the wages in the apparel sector are still higher than the country's minimum wage. 

Lastly, regarding child labour, the minimum age for employees in Madagascar is now 15 years. Roughly 4.1% of workers in cotton plantations witnessed underage workers, while the statistic drops to 0.3% for workers in garment manufacturing and distribution (US International Trade Administration, 2020).

The History of Madagascar's Textile Industry

For most of Madagascar's history, its inhabitants wore home-produced clothes. Fine silk and cotton garments were sold to the elité, who were at times referred to as 'gods'. Only in 1820 did the Merina elité start to adopt European clothes. In the same decade, domestic textile production was progressively undermined. This was due to several factors, including unremunerated forced labour for the state, which pushed plenty of women to abandon garment making and get into different fields.

Even though the country experienced an economic revival in the 1860s in terms of cotton production and traditional clothes manufacturing, the situation worsened again in 1875 due to an economic crisis (Campbell, 2018). 

Luckily, however, the Madagascar textile industry eventually recovered, becoming one of the leading countries in Sub-Saharan Africa for apparel production. Although much still needs to be done to achieve true sustainability and ethical working conditions within this sector, the country seems to be on the right track to remain among the key players in the textile manufacturing business in Africa.